Exploring the Pontine Islands on sailboat as if it were the first time… Sailing at sea allows you to capture the essence of the places you visit like never before… This explains my desire to embark on a sailing trip for the first time, in the Italian archipelago that I love the most.
Located in the Tyrrhenian Sea, off the coast of the Gulf of Gaeta in Lazio, based on useful advice from experts in the field, I decide to go there in the month of June. To board the boat, Nettuno is the destination, about 60 km from Rome. I take the opportunity to visit its small medieval village overlooking the marina. We prepare for an important navigation on sailboat, about 35 miles separate us from the destination. During the sailing journey, we savor the increasingly intense blue sea, the wind caressing us, and if we’re lucky, the spectacle of dolphins in front of the boat, while the skipper tells us what to expect.
The Pontine Islands Archipelago
It consists of 6 islands of volcanic origin: Ponza, Palmarola, Ventotene, Santo Stefano, Gavi, and Zannone. The last two are also part of the Circeo National Park. Wild and uninhabited, overnight stops are not allowed, so we will visit them briefly during the cruise. Santo Stefano is a small circular island that is part of the Municipality of Ventotene. Although uninhabited, it is allowed to visit, and we will take advantage of this during the stop in Ventotene. The sailing cruise to the Pontine Islands heads towards the largest islands in the archipelago.
Ponza, an island to be discovered
The main island that gives its name to the archipelago, also known as the Ponzian Islands, is Ponza. It is one of the most beautiful villages in the province of Latina and Lazio. The island, almost entirely hilly, has only one port and boasts beautiful beaches and hidden coves along its rocky coastline. During the months of May and June, you have the luck to find them semi-empty! Most of them, the most beautiful in my opinion, are reachable through difficult paths and not-so-comfortable staircases, I know them well… that’s the main reason why I say that the best way to visit the Pontine Islands is a sailing vacation!
Sailing through the Faraglioni di Calzo, we anchor freely in front of the first beach we dedicate ourselves to: Chiaia di Luna. A strip of clear sand under a white tuff cliff that drops steeply into the sea. The reflection in the water makes this cove suggestive, with breathtaking colors, and being able to see it from the sea makes you part of a natural painting painted by an artist! In the evening, we anchor in the bay, enjoy an aperitif at the bow, and exchange our first emotions. A simple but flavorful dinner accompanies us until the moon rises.
To shipwreck is sweet in this sea…
After waking up lulled by the waves, we sail through the Faraglioni di Lucia Rosa to reach two wild beaches immersed in nature: Lucia Rosa Beach and Felci Beach. The latter, particularly beloved for its marine fauna, takes its name from the surrounding plants. Another sail and we are in Cala Feola, the most famous beach in Ponza. The small beach is nestled amidst a play of rocks that form natural pools accessible by swimming.
It is special and unique, the sea turns into a clear blue that reveals the rich marine fauna and rocky seabed. Here, we unleash our sporty nature, equipped with masks and fins, we explore caves and natural pools. It remains difficult not to understand why the people of Ponza particularly love this area of the island. Night at anchor and an evening of storytelling in the moonlight. We continue to visit the Pontine Islands on sailboat, today we dedicate ourselves to the eastern side of the island of Ponza. We reach Frontone, a renowned beach for sunset aperitifs, but that has been inaccessible for some time. Therefore, the only way to enjoy it is by sea, on a sailboat. In such a natural setting, could scuba diving be missing?
Get ready to visit the Pontine Islands and explore the breathtaking depths!
And here we are at the Grotte di Pilato: a complex of Roman caves, carved at sea level. The volcanic eruption of the island created these interconnected caves, waiting to be explored! A tip: don’t forget to pack an underwater camera! The island of Ponza allows you to always sleep at anchor, but in case the sea takes control, there is the option to seek shelter in the port instead of the open bay, which is wide and protected.
In the late afternoon, we go ashore for a drink along the harbor, where the island comes to life. A walk through the town among small artisan shops and marine souvenir stores that color the main avenue. We look at the fishing boats moored in the harbor and choose the fish to buy for a nice dinner on board. An evening under the stars. Alternatively, the evening venues like Mamafè or Blue Moon, famous for their location and special effects, are ready to welcome those who want to experience the Ponzese nightlife. The taxiboat is available at any time of the night to take passengers from the pier to their own boat.
Ventotene, a landscape of pastel colors
The next day, we sail towards Ventotene, the southernmost island of the Pontine Islands. It is located in a Marine Protected Area and, unlike the island of Ponza, does not allow anchoring in protected bays. The largest and most famous beach is Cava Nave, with its white sand in front of the rock that bears its name and small rocks in shallow water, perfect for diving into clear waters. After a relaxing break and lunch on board, we continue sailing north until we reach the famous historical monument “Porto Romano” also known as Porto Vecchio of Ventotene.
It marks the beginning of an island steeped in a rich historical and archaeological heritage that testifies to a prosperous past in which the Romans and the Bourbons actively participated, making it famous worldwide. Welcoming us is a giant stone bollard at the entrance of the harbor, a marvel! It is not easy to find a place to moor, and due to its size, it does not allow large boats to dock.
Pontine Islands… the right way to fully experience them
Turn to TheOtherWay to visit the Pontine Islands; it is the right organization to arrange a sailing cruise or catamaran trip, ideal for families, adults, and children! We step onto the pier, trying to absorb the Roman history that surrounds us. Small niches carved into the rock hide souvenir shops and fry shops, where we can enjoy fish in parchment… our dinner is decided! We stroll through the town, reaching the main square and then climbing up and down staircases that lead to strategic viewpoints offering incredible panoramas! Endless photographs, a glass of wine in good company, and then we return on board, still filled with adrenaline.
In the morning, we circumnavigate the island, coasting along the shoreline and exploring the most beautiful bays, spotting cliffs and enchanting beaches, such as Parata Grande beach. At the appointed time, we reach Santo Stefano, which is about 2 miles from Ventotene, to visit the only building there, the Prison, a circular structure dating back to the Bourbon period. A special note: during the fascist period, it hosted illustrious figures, including Altiero Spinelli and Ernesto Rossi, pioneers of the idea of a free and united Europe, thanks to the unprecedented Manifesto of Ventotene, written by them in 1941. Then, we head towards Porto Nuovo to spend another pleasant night in Ventotene.
Palmarola: the Pontine Islands on sailboat
Palmarola… if there is a paradise, I imagine it just like this. We wake up early in the morning to head back towards the island of Ponza, which we will only pass by, as we are heading to Palmarola, the island that has captured my heart… if there is a paradise, it surely has its resemblance!
I couldn’t wait to reach it and explore it. Visiting the Pontine Islands on sailboat is a whole different experience… As the crew comes into view, a strange-shaped rock with vague boundaries appears in the distance. Palmarola is the third largest island in the Pontine Islands Archipelago and can only be reached by ferry from Ponza. As we get closer, its wild nature becomes apparent, and its rugged coastline takes shape. In fact, the name Palmarola derives from the numerous dwarf palms that grow on the island. Welcoming us is the Faraglione del Mezzogiorno. The first stop is in front of what is called a natural monument:
The Cathedral of Palmarola
It appears in all its majesty, a true work of art! A series of narrow and tall caves in basalt carve the cliff, creating the entrance to a real cathedral, with its vaults and columns. It can be visited by equipping yourself with a mask, snorkel, and fins or water shoes. The filtered light makes the water blue, and the seabed is surprisingly clear, until you realize you’re swimming in darkness. Saying that one is dazzled by such beauty is not enough. As we board the boat after the marine excursion, I remember sitting at the bow, away from my travel companions, searching for the silence that could absorb all the unique and overwhelming sensations I was experiencing at that moment and that verbal communication could have dispersed in the wind.
The island of Palmarola, in all its beauty…
And it wasn’t over yet… when we moved to reach the bay where we would spend the night, a truly enchanted scene unfolded before our eyes: a bay with emerald green water and two cliffs that delimit its borders. Cala del Porto, also known as Cala de O’Francese. We anchor in front of the Maga Circe Beach, where the skipper advises us to swim before the sunset. The advice of an experienced and passionate skipper is much more than just advice; it would be foolish not to listen to it. The beach appears surrounded by the hillside and practically deserted, except for the presence of a structure that at first sight appears simple, rustic, and unpretentious.
It is the O’Francese Restaurant, which gave its name to the bay. We were told its story: he, known as “the Frenchman” was the son of a fisherman originally from Palmarola who moved to France to live. After many years, he decided to return to his native island with his family and built a wooden house to live in. In the 1960s, a couple of sailors on vacation found themselves in Palmarola and were hosted by the Frenchman. Today, that wooden house has become a real restaurant with room service, managed until the 1970s by the children of those guests who arrived on the island by chance one day.
The sunset on a sailboat is a magical moment…
It is time to enjoy the long-awaited sunset. Sitting on the beach, on the shore, admiring one of the most beautiful sunsets of my life. The sky turns red, and the sun approaches the water, reflecting the last glimmer of its light, creating a luminous trail. Two sailboats, far apart, sway gently. The initially earth-colored cliffs become two bodies with warm, reddish shades. Time stops, minutes pass slowly until the sea embraces the sun in its belly, and the sky gradually fades.
Another day ends, leaving us all speechless. The majority decides to eat on board, so we all adapt to enjoy good company once again. The moon illuminates the night, and the stars fill the sky, and all we have left is to dream… We have reached the last day of our fantastic sailboat vacation in the Pontine Islands. In the morning, Cala de O’Francese still appears asleep, and we take advantage of it to take the first dip in the water. A short distance from the beach, we take a path carved into the rock that leads to the Chapel of San Silverio, the only one on the entire island. Palmarola has no ports or houses; the only inhabitants are the managers of the structure in Cala del Porto and a few sheep.
The beauty of visiting the Pontine Islands on sailboat
We resume sailing to complete the visit to the island. We are at Cala Brigantina, where pirate ships sought shelter until the 18th century. The island’s coastline is mostly steep with coves and caves to explore, such as the Grotta del Gatto, which houses a freshwater spring inside. Our skipper takes us to explore it with the tender. The colors of Palmarola continue to change: the cobalt blue sea gives way to emerald green, then becomes sky blue. We sail along the island until we reach the Galere, spotted rocks that blend the pure black color of obsidian glass with the ochre color of the rock.
Lunch on board today has a more melancholic taste, as it reminds us that the return awaits us. One last dive and we prepare for the return crossing to the port of Nettuno. We will arrive late in the evening, satisfied. My adventure companions go ashore to eat in the village, in one of the picturesque spots where a seventy-year-old lady, for about fifty years, prepares homemade sandwiches with chicory, provolone cheese, and sausage. I’m not hungry, so I skip dinner and wait for them on board. The next morning we disembark.
Why visit the Pontine Islands on a sailboat
Returning to the Pontine Islands on a sailboat was like discovering them again for the first time. A sudden desire to trace the emotions that caused me such turmoil, I believe it was inevitable.
It will never be enough, because when you discover how to fully enjoy your travel experience, you never let go. I will return to visit the Pontine Islands on a sailboat because I am certain that in this way, I will live the adventure to its fullest!